Balancing Performance, Safety, Sustainability, Sensorial experience and Costs
Formulating sunscreen is complex due to multiple factors to consider. From navigating regional and local regulatory restrictions that limit sunscreen choice to balancing formulation complexity, suncare formulation experts must push boundaries to meet market demands. The suncare industry has been rethinking its environmental impact since Hawaii banned oxybenzone and octinoxate in 2018 to protect coral reefs, driving the development of more eco-friendly formulations. Moreover, global regulatory variations complicate the creation of universal products, with U.S. brands limited to older UV filters while advancements in sustainable ingredients progress elsewhere.
As ingredient options narrow and safety concerns grow among dermatologists, consumers, and regulatory agencies, creating compliant products is becoming increasingly challenging. Despite these hurdles, the ultimate goal remains unchanged: to deliver effective protection against sun damage and its associated health risks.
ACHIEVING FULL & BROAD PROTECTION
UV radiation has short-, medium-, and long-term effects. When sunscreen was first developed, it was designed primarily for UVB protection, as early research only highlighted its harmful effects. UVA was initially thought to have only positive effects, with its potential dangers unrecognised. Early sunscreens focused on UVB protection, but research has since revealed the dangers of both UVA and UVB radiation. UVA rays, comprising 95% of UV radiation, penetrate the dermis (the skin's middle layer) and contribute to certain skin cancers. UVB rays are more superficial, reaching only the epidermis (the skin's outer layer), and are responsible for sunburn while being a key factor in malignant melanoma development [2]. Studies show that visible light (400–760 nm) similarly penetrates the skin, contributing to erythema and hyperpigmentation based on skin tone [4]. To ensure full protection, sunscreens must address visible light exposure. This underscores the importance of broad-spectrum protection in modern sunscreens.
HEALTH CHALLENGES
From premature skin ageing to preventing skin damage, blistering, and even skin cancer, sunscreens provide essential health benefits by protecting consumers from the sun's harmful effects. Suncare formulations must also align with the latest research on ingredient safety, ensuring products are safe for consumer use. Scientific studies have shown that sunscreens can interact with the body; substances applied to the skin are not completely inert. Some ingredients can penetrate the skin, potentially reaching the dermis and entering the bloodstream at smaller molecular levels [3]. Certain ingredients have also been identified as potential endocrine disruptors. To address these concerns, new-generation filters are designed with larger molecular weights to minimise absorption and mitigate risks.
Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, August 2023
In cosmetic formulation, achieving a balance between maximising the bioavailability of active ingredients and ensuring sunscreens remain on the skin's surface is crucial. Formulations must avoid skin or eye irritation and ensure smooth application for consistent coverage. Avoiding a white cast, particularly for darker skin tones, has become a market expectation. Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) historically had larger molecular sizes, which created a white cast. To resolve this, powders were micronised to eliminate the cast while enhancing protective performance. These nanoparticles can also be coated to improve photostability, ensure better dispersion within the formula, and prevent particle agglomeration. Despite concerns about nanoparticles, no proven health risks have been identified to date. However, nanoparticles smaller than 100 nm must be labeled accordingly.
IMPROVING CONSUMER EXPERIENCE
Consumers increasingly seek effective yet enjoyable suncare formulas. The demand for lightweight, fluid, and smooth textures suitable for daily use is growing. To encourage consistent and adequate sun protection, the industry is developing "pleasant-to-apply" SPF products that integrate seamlessly into daily routines. Alternative formats, such as sticks and mists, are gaining popularity for their ease of use and portability, making re-application on the go more convenient. These innovations include glow or matte finishes and transparent formulas that avoid the white-cast effect, enhancing both performance and user experience.
Cosmetics companies are also exploring creative formats that deliver "fun" and "wow" effects, such as foams, balms, butters, watery products, and gels. In the suncare category, offering mess-free, fast-absorbing applications is critical to encourage adoption of routines incorporating sun protection. Products that win consumers over with their texture or format present an exciting challenge for formulators. Indie brands in South Korea, the US, and France are leading the way.
Sources:
[1] Interview with Laurent Blasco - Global Technical Director IMCD Beauty & Personal Care
[2] WebMD: Melanoma and skin cancer: https://www.webmd.com/melanomaskin-cancer/difference-between-uva-rays-and-uvb-rays
[3] Sunscreens in human plasma and urine after repeated whole-body topical application: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18221342/
[4] Sunscreens: What Might the Future Hold? https://www.jintegrativederm.org/article/92544-sunscreens-what-might-the-future-hold